![]() The direct supply needs to be breakered at 20A, and since the connection is series, they will suffice to protect the wires. ![]() If the transformer can take a Euro voltage of 360-417V, you do something vaguely similar by using transformers in a buck-boost fashion to step up a 240V/20A to higher voltage (still at 20A). Now you're playing with funny fractions of power If the charger really needs neutral, then your second 10KVA transformer out at the charger can be jumpered for 240+120V output, giving neutral. You will need a grounding rod out at the vehicle. If the charger can intake 480V directly, you'll only need one transformer. That's within the range of your 12/2 cable. Instead of carrying it that way, use two common 10KVA transformers to step it up to 480V x 15A for transmission. That means you are ready for "next-generation" multi-EV charging at 80A shared. In fact, with modern pricing, you can get a 2-2-2-4 Aluminum feeder cable for the same price as 10/3, and that is legal for 90A. The proper 10/3 cable is just not that expensive when you DIY, so stop being cheap and go do it. And you're no pauper if you're getting an electric car. No electrician would install your ideas, so you're clearly doing this yourself, armed with "a little knowledge". ![]() While you're talking to them, ask them if they support 380V (middle-east 2-leg) or 480V (industrial) because that's a backup plan.Īlso ask them if the charger can be programmed to only draw 20A, because that solves it right there. Tell them you're taking the car to Europe. Get another one, or push back on the builder and ask "How do I wire this 240V-only?" They're crazy not to - all the market growth is in Europe, Australia, Asia or the middle east. It requires a neutral wire, and there's no earthly reason for an EV charger to need neutral. Paralleling is not one.Īlso, I hope you're not married to that charger, because it sucks. If for some bizarre reason this EVSE does not allow you to configure that, get a better one. Since EVSEs by law run at 80% of breaker, that will derate it to 16A (3840W) instead of 24A (5760W). Simply tell the EVSE it's on a 20A breaker instead of a 30A breaker. The EVSE tells the car how much power it is allowed to draw. Your "car charger" is actually an EVSE and not a charger.
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